|Cut the rest of
the moldings for the cabinet on the router table, then
rip them off on the table saw (Photo 9).
Attach the moldings to the case, beginning with the
dentil. Clamp it in place, and mark its miters. Bore
pilot holes in it for alignment nails. Glue and clamp
the molding and drive the nails through it. Attach the
side dentil moldings in the same sequence.
To apply the ogee molding above the dentil, follow
the same sequence, but don't nail the molding to the
case. Attach it to the dentil molding with nails from
above (Photo 10).
Supports, Doors, Drawers And Lighting
Make the butt-rest panel, then bore 2-in.-dia. holes
in it, and saw out the waste between them. Trim the
cutouts using a router and flush-trimming bit. Run the
router against a plywood fence clamped to the panel
Cut out the barrel rest, bore a series of 1-in.-dia.
holes in it, and make a series of cuts tangent to the
holes using a sabre saw. Make the pistol platform, cover
it with felt and leave it aside to be installed after
the cabinet is finished.
Next, rip and crosscut the door rails and stiles.
Mark the centerlines on the pieces, and use a dowel jig
to bore holes in either the rails or the stiles. Insert
dowel centers in the holes and align the parts using a
framing square. Press the parts together (Photo 12), and
use a dowel jig to bore holes on the marks (Photo 13).
Insert dowels in the holes, then glue and clamp the
assembly. Sand the doors using a random-orbit
oscillating sander (Photo 14).
Cut the glazing rabbets inside the doors, and cut the
molded edges on them. Cut the door's glazing strips, and
round the strip ends to fit the rabbets. Buy acrylic
glazing cut to size, then sand the glazing's corners to
fit the rabbets. Install the glazing after the case is
Now, lay the upper and lower cases on their backs,
and temporarily install the door hinges. Lay each door
in place over the hinge. Press down on the door, so that
a small dimple on the hinge marks the hinge's position
on the door (Photo 15). Remove the door, and lay it on
the workbench. Position a hinge on the dents and use the
hinge as a template to bore the screwholes.
Rip, crosscut and joint the drawer parts, then cut
the rabbets and grooves in the parts. Also cut a half
circle in each drawer box for lock clearance. Glue and
clamp the drawer boxes. Make the drawer fronts and bore
a lock hole in each.
Install the drawer slides in the case per the
manufacturer's directions. Mount each drawer box in its
slides and drive four drywall screws through each drawer
front. Hold the drawer front in front of the drawer
boxes and press the drawer front against the drywall
screws to mark the drawer front location on the box
(Photo 16). Bore pilot holes on the marks, mount the
locks on the drawer fronts, and install the drawer
Mark the location of the lock cam levers on the
drawer divider and on the bottom of the pistol
compartment shelf. Remove the divider and shelf, and
then cut the mortises to accommodate the lock cam lever.
Reinstall the divider.
Now stack the cases, clamp them together and bore
holes for the connecting bolts. Bolt the two cases
together and carefully finish-sand. We applied two coats
of Watco Cherry Danish Oil Finish, followed by two coats
of semigloss polyurethane. The finish was applied on the
doors, drawers and case assembly separately. Install
these components after you are through applying finish
on them. The pistol compartment shelf, the glazing in
the doors, the gun supports and the plywood back panels
are installed after finishing.
The final touch is to install two 3-light, 20-watt
halogen Combilight kits. The product is sold at home
centers and lighting showrooms. To locate a distributor,
contact Lusa Lighting, 26235 Technology Dr., Valencia,
CA 91355; 800-779-2946.