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Here is a really nice, easy to make, folding director's
chair.
Folding Director's
Chair.
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Detailed
Instructions
*********** WARNING***********
Read my
page on safety
before building this item.
Materials needed:
While any choice of
woods will work, I recommend 3 types of wood for the project: a light maple,
oak, or hickory.
Six foot of 2" x 3" lumber.
Five board-foot of 1" thick
(actual finished size) lumber (at least 2-1/2' long).
Two 3/4" dowels (3'
long).
Four 1/4" lagbolts (2" long), 8 flat washers, and self-locking
nuts.
Two 3/8" lagbolts (3" long), 2 flat washers, and self-locking
nuts.
Four heavy offset hinges.
Two 9" locking supports. Available at
Rockler.com by clicking here.
Assorted sandpaper.
Exterior wood finish.
1/2 yard of heavy canvas
material & heavy duty thread.
Construction: * * * * * N O T E *
* * * * The dowels in most pieces can be replaced by turning the peices
on a wood lathe after allowing the extra length in the respective ends of
the pieces being turned. This results in a stronger and better looking
final piece. |
- First, cut out the four legs. They measure 1" thick by 2" wide by
24-3/4" long.
- Locate the center of the top end of each leg and drill a 3/4" hole,
1-1/2" deep for a 3/4" dowel.
- Locate the hole for the foot rest of each leg 5" from the bottom and
drill a 3/4" hole 1" deep for the foot rest.
- Locate the hole for pivot pin of each leg 13" from the bottom and
drill a 3/8" hole through the leg.
- Locate the hole for the knife hing of two
legs 5" from the top and drill a 1/4" hole through the leg. These legs
will be the outer legs.
- Taper each leg from a 2" width to 1-3/8 at the ends. The taper on
each end should be 8" long.
- Cut the small bevel on the bottom of each leg as shown in the
drawings.
- Sand all long edges to a rounded shape.
- Cut out the two seat sides. They measure 2-1/4" wide by 1-5/8" thick
by 14-5/8" long. (2" x 3" lumber)
- On the bottom of one seat side, locate the holes for the dowels that
secure the legs 3-1/4" from the ends and drill a 3/4" hole, 1" deep for
a 3/4" dowel.
- On the bottom of the other seat side, locate the holes for the
dowels that secure the legs 1-3/4" from the ends and drill a 3/4" hole,
1" deep for a 3/4" dowel.
- Cut the bevel along each side piece to create the top edge as
indicated in the drawings.
- Cut the notch 5/16" by 3/4" as indicated. Use a router (making
multiple passes) if you do not have a table saw or circular saw with
appropriate accessories.
- Cut two 3/4" dowels (one 13-3/4" long & one 16-1/4" long) for
the foot rests.
- Now cut two 3/4" dowels 7" long for the arm rest supports.
- Cut out two arm rest bases. They measure 1-1/4" thick by 1-11/16"
wide by 15-5/8" long. (2" x 3" lumber)
- Locate the holes for the dowels that secure the arm rest 1-5/8" from
each end and drill a 3/4" hole, 1" deep for a 3/4" dowel.
- Sand only the upper edges to a rounded shape as shown in the end
view of the drawings.
- Cut out the two arm rest. They measure 1" thick by 2-1/4" wide by
15" long.
- Locate the center of the back of each arm rest and drill a 3/4"
hole, 1" deep for a 3/4" dowel.
- Locate and drill a 1/2" deep - 3/4" hole in the bottom of the arm
rest 2-1/4" from the front edge for a 3/4" dowel.
- Cut the curves and tapers as indicated in the drawings.
- Sand all long edges to a rounded shape.
- Cut out the two back supports. They measure 1" thick by 1-3/8" wide
by 15-1/4" long.
- Locate the center of bottom of each back support and drill a 3/4"
hole, 1" deep for a 3/4" dowel.
- Locate and drill a 1/2" deep - 3/4" hole in the front of each back
support 6-7/16" from the bottom for a 3/4" dowel.
- Sand all long edges to a rounded shape or turn them on a wood lathe.
Shape the tops of the backs on a lathe, if desired but do not turn them
smaller than 1".
- Cut two 7/16" long pieces from the 3/4 dowel and drill a 3/8" hole
through the center of each. These will be the pivot pin spacers.
- Cut two fabric supports. They measure 1/4" thick by 5/8" wide by
14-1/2" long.
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- Make a canvas chair back. The finshed back measures 7" by 21-1/2"
with 2-1/4 sleeves (to slide over the back supports) on both ends.
- Make a canvas chair seat. The finshed seat measures 15" by 22" with
1" sleeves (to slide over the fabric supports) on both ends.
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Assembly: |
- Cut two 1-1/2" lengths of 3/4" dowel then glue and dowel each arm
rest to each back support.
- Cut two 2" lengths of 3/4" dowel then glue and dowel each back
support to each arm rest base.
- Glue each 7" long arm rest support (step 15) between each arm rest
& each arm rest base.
- Cut four 2-1/2" lengths of 3/4" dowel then glue and dowel the legs
to each seat side.
- Glue each foot rest (step 14) between each set of legs.
- Clamp all assemblies tightly and allow to dry overnight.
- Insert the 3/8" lag bolts through each outer leg (head to the outer
side), add a washer and tighten the nut to 'set' the head into the wood.
- Remove the lag bolt then position the inner leg set inside the outer
legs.
- Insert the lag bolt, adding the spacer (step 28) between the outer
& inner leg, then the flat washer and the nut.
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- Install the locking knife support to the inner side of the outer leg
with a flat washer between the support and the wood. It should fold up,
not down.
- Locate and install the other end of the locking knife support to the
outer side of the inner leg with a flat washer between the support and
the wood so that the distance from the OUTER
edges of the two arm rest base is exactly 21-1/4".
- Cut off all bolts even with the locking nut then file or grind it
smooth and flush with the nut.
- Apply a thin dab of clear silicone caulk over the nut & bolt.
- Insert the fabric supports into the sleeves of the seat.
- Mount the offset hinges 2-1/2" from the end of the arm rest base as
indicated in the drawings.
- Install the seat by sliding the ends into the notch between the
hinge and the arm rest base.
- Secure the arm rests to the offset hinges. Allow them to swing
slightly open while installing to result in a tight fit later.
- Slip the back over the top of the back supports.
- Remove the fabric back and seat and all hardware, then sand and
finsh the surface as desired.
- Email me a picture of your finshed project.
Click on the drawings, above, for hi-res vesions.
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