The Drawer Case
Begin by cutting the case parts (E1, E2, G) to size.
Cut edge band strips (F) from solid walnut and glue them
to the front edges of the panels. Use a router with an
edge guide to cut the rabbet along the back edge of the
exposed side of the base.
Lay out the joining-plate slots in the case parts and
use a plate joiner to cut the slots. Apply glue to the
slots and joining plates, install the plates and
assemble the case. Use bar or pipe clamps to pull the
joints tight and check that the assembly is square by
comparing opposite diagonal measurements. Adjust the
clamps if necessary and allow the glue to cure for at
least 30 minutes before removing the clamps. Cut the
1/4-in. back panel (I) to size, bore pilot holes and
install it on the case with 3/4-in. No. 5 fh wood
Cut solid-maple stock to size for the base (A, B1,
B2, C), and cut the 3/4-in. plywood base top panel (D)
to size. Join the maple pieces to the panel and to each
other at the corners with 4d finishing nails and glue.
Make sure that the miter joint on the exposed corner is
tight. Set and fill the nail holes. When the filler is
completely dry, sand the base smooth with 120-, 180- and
220-grit sandpaper. Bore pilot holes in the base top and
fasten the base to the case.
The Legs And Rail
Cut walnut panels to size for the legs (O). Apply
glue to a pair of panels for each leg, then clamp them
together until the glue sets. Cut a walnut edge band (F)
for each leg assembly. Apply glue to one of the strips
and the front edge of one of the legs, then clamp the
strip in place. Repeat for the other leg. After the glue
sets, scrape off any excess. Use a router and chamfer
bit to cut the bevels along the front edges of the legs.
Cut the back rail to size and glue the walnut edge
band (R) along its bottom edge. Lay out and cut the
joining-plate slots in the ends and top edge of the rail
and also in the leg panels and inner case side. Set
these parts aside until the top is complete.
Cut the panels to size for the desktop. The top is
formed by sandwiching together two pieces of 3/4-in.
stock. The grain of the top panel (S) runs across the
top, so the upper panels must be joined in the center.
Pay close attention to matching the grain. Since the
bottom panel (T) is not visible, cut it in one piece
with the grain running along its length.
Use the router with a slotting cutter to cut the
spline grooves in the mating edges of the top panels.
Cut a maple spline to fit the groove, apply glue to the
grooves, edges and spline and assemble the panel. Pull
the joint tight with clamps and allow the glue to set.
Spread glue on the desktop panels and stack them
together with all edges perfectly flush. Use enough
clamps and cauls to distribute even pressure across the
top. Let the glue set for at least 1 hour.
Use a router and edge guide to cut the rabbet around
the front and ends of the top. Trim the black inlay
strips (V1, V2) to size. Since the strips come in 3-ft.
lengths, there will be joints along the front edge of
the top. To keep these seams hidden, use 45 degree scarf
joints instead of butt joints. Apply glue to the rabbet
and install the inlay strips. Use masking tape spaced 2
in. apart to hold the inlay while the glue sets. After
30 minutes, remove the tape and scrape off excess glue.
Cut the solid-walnut edge (W1, W2) to size from 2-in.
stock. Spread glue on both the panel edge and one of the
solid edge pieces, and clamp the piece in place. Be sure
to keep the top surfaces of the veneered panel and
walnut edging perfectly flush. Repeat the process for